Hide glue -- the animal glue that we used earlier --or even some of the other polyurethane resin glues, is they contain water.We've gone through this entire process of drying things out, getting them straight and level--if you add water to wood, the wood moves. So, I try and use non-water-based glues in the neck to keep things from moving around.So, the neck has now been rough carved, the majority of the material removed,so any movement that's happened in the neck www.coversinplay.com
it's pretty much this is where it's going to live.This dial indicator is showing me there is about two or three thousandths of an inch of what we call back bow, which is a hump in the neck, and which is totally normal because we've removed wood from this surface and my job is now going to be to flatten this out in a straight plane from the nut to the bridge while maintaining my compound radius of my fret board.Down here, I'm about minus half a thousandth.
Here, I'm about plus half a thousandth.Here, I'm reading zero.Here, it's half a thousandth, so that needs a little more work.This sandpaper is at a fine enough grit now that it's not going to change the geometry of the fingerboard or its radius.So as you see, we're moving across the entire fret board.That's pretty much dead flat.Perfect fret work and neck geometry is a big deal.With hand tools to get it within /'s, it's more than acceptable.So, I buy fret wire in large rolls like. This particular comes from Germany.It's really super high-quality stuff, and this gold color it's really a copper-titanium alloy, or at least that's my understanding of what it is;and it's much hard than the conventional nickel-silver fret wire that we've been using for the last sixty years?Maybe seventy years? So, it lasts longer.As you can see because of the binding on the fingerboard.